Get ready to say ciao to Chef Greg Vernick’s newest culinary adventure, Emilia, opening its doors today in Kensington. But here’s where it gets exciting: this isn’t just another restaurant—it’s Vernick’s first new venture in 6½ years, and it’s a bold departure from his New American roots into the heart of Italian cuisine. And this is the part most people miss: the inspiration behind Emilia wasn’t just a trip to Rome—it was a chef’s pilgrimage with his team, soaking up flavors, techniques, and stories that now grace the menu.
Chefs often draw inspiration from their travels, and Vernick is no exception. Think Jesse Ito and Justin Bacharach’s konbini-inspired Dancerobot or Stephen Starr’s trattoria-scouted Borromini. For Vernick, a recent journey to Rome with Meredith Medoway, Emilia’s chef de cuisine, and Drew Parrasio, his culinary director, became the cornerstone of Emilia’s identity. ‘I’ve been to Rome before, but never as a chef traveling with other chefs,’ Vernick reflects. This trip was different—it was about tasting, learning, and bringing those experiences back to Philadelphia.
Before jetting off, Vernick sought advice from culinary heavyweights like Marc Vetri, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Hope Cohen. ‘Where do I need to eat? Street food, markets, trattorias—all of it,’ he asked. One standout recommendation was the American Academy in Rome, where a spontaneous visit turned into a full day of culinary immersion. ‘We were eating arugula straight from the ground, picking rosemary and thyme—it felt cinematic,’ Vernick recalls. It was here, during a family meal with students, that they discovered a simple yet unforgettable chicken ragù pasta. ‘Light, savory, a little gamey,’ Vernick describes. ‘We didn’t even talk much while eating it.’ That dish, now reimagined as ‘rigatoni, ragù bianco,’ is Emilia’s must-try—and its only chicken dish, a daring choice that speaks to Vernick’s confidence.
Located just north of the York Street roundabout on Frankford Avenue, Emilia seats 60 in its dining room, with additional spots at the bar and lounge. The vibe? Intentionally relaxed. ‘I wanted it to feel like the kind of place where you walk in and exhale,’ Vernick says. The lighting, designed by Carey Jackson Yonce and Bob Bronstein, is subdued, creating a warm, industry-friendly atmosphere. But here’s the controversial part: Vernick aims to appeal to both the neighborhood crowd and industry insiders from day one. Can he strike the perfect balance? Only time will tell.
Italian cuisine is new territory for Vernick, whose portfolio includes Vernick Food & Drink, Vernick Coffee Bar, and Vernick Fish. The shift was inspired by Emilia’s developers, who envisioned an Italian restaurant, and Medoway, whose expertise was a natural fit. The bar program is exclusively Italian, featuring low-intervention wines, amari, spritzes, and a seasonal negroni. The menu? A mix of small plates (think teens and $20s) and hearty entrees like golden tilefish ribollita and crispy veal with broccoli di ciccio ($53). House-made pastas, grilled dishes, and complimentary breads—focaccia, sesame ciabatta, and grissini—round out the offerings.
One dish that’s already generating buzz is the rabbit Emiliana, Medoway’s take on cacciatore from Emilia-Romagna. Braised rabbit, roasted peppers, green olives, fresh orange, and vinegar create a punchy, sweet-sour profile. Smaller plates like carta da musica—a Sardinian cracker spread with butter, bottarga, and fire-roasted pepper relish—encourage sharing and conversation. ‘It’s about breaking bread together,’ Vernick explains. Even seemingly simple dishes, like grilled cabbage with colatura vinaigrette and pecorino, defy expectations. ‘It reads ‘boring,’ but it eats incredibly well,’ he promises.
Here’s the question that’ll spark debate: Can Emilia redefine Italian dining in Philadelphia while staying true to Vernick’s approachable, neighborhood-focused ethos? With its blend of tradition and innovation, Emilia is poised to make waves. But what do you think? Will it become your new go-to spot, or is it just another addition to Philly’s bustling food scene? Let us know in the comments.
Emilia, 2406 Frankford Ave., 267-541-2360, emiliaphilly.com. Reservations are now open on Resy. Hours: 5 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday to Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m. Thursday to Saturday.
